By It really does feel like one of skincare’s most frustrating jokes. Someone notices a new fine line near their eyes on the same morning a breakout pops up on their chin. But it’s more common than your friend with envy-inducing glass skin thinks! Luckily, it’s not too difficult to start a skincare routine for wrinkles and acne without throwing away your month’s grocery money. From the best products and active ingredients to how to use retinol without irritation and whether a vitamin C serum for dull skin will work, we’re here to help.
Am I really not alone in this?
As many of us know, acne doesn’t always stop after the teenage years. A widely cited US study by Collier and colleagues (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2008) found acne in about 51% of women in their 20s and 26% of women in their 40s. So, many of us are in this fight with you!
Hormonal changes, stress and certain medications all play a part. At the same time, the skin slowly makes less collagen as people get older. Australia’s intense UV speeds that process up, so it’s no surprise many Aussies see pimples and wrinkles side by side.
Retinoids are your multi-tasking best friends
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives. They speed up skin cell turnover, help keep pores clear and encourage collagen production. Retinol is the more common version you can buy over the counter, but retinal is its more gentle (and more effective) big sister.
Stronger options such as tretinoin need a prescription in Australia, so a GP or dermatologist is the best person to talk to.
Easing into the retinoid routine gently
Learning how to use retinol without irritation mostly comes down to patience, and the same applies to retinal. Start with a pea-sized amount two or three nights a week. Put moisturiser on first if your skin’s sensitive, and skip strong exfoliating acids for the first few weeks. Some dryness or flaking in the first two to six weeks is normal. The most common mistake? Using too much, too often, then giving up before it starts working.
Bring in the vitamin C
A vitamin C serum for dull skin works best in the morning. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps neutralise free radicals from UV exposure, brightens uneven tone and supports collagen. Research led by Pinnell (Dermatologic Surgery, 2001) found that L-ascorbic acid is absorbed best at concentrations of around 10 to 20% and a low pH.
The evidence that vitamin C treats acne directly is limited, but it can help fade the marks breakouts leave behind. If your skin breaks out easily, choose a lightweight, non-comedogenic formula, meaning one that’s designed not to block pores.
Sunscreen isn’t optional
Sunscreen might be the least exciting step, but it’s the most proven one. The Nambour Skin Cancer Prevention Trial in Queensland (Hughes et al., Annals of Internal Medicine, 2013) found that adults who used sunscreen daily were 24% less likely to show increased skin ageing over four and a half years. An oil-free, broad-spectrum SPF 50+ suits acne-prone skin well.
Other Helpful Ingredients
You don’t have to go wild on your skincare routine or make your own magic potion of a million products, but there are a few helpful extras you can layer into your skincare routine if you have specific concerns!
- Niacinamide: 5% niacinamide improves fine lines and redness. It’s usually gentle on breakout-prone skin.
- Azelaic acid: It helps calm acne and fade pigmentation, and many people find it easier to tolerate than other actives.
- Salicylic acid: This oil-soluble exfoliant gets inside pores to clear congestion.
A simple daily routine that doesn’t drive you mad
In the morning, use a gentle cleanser, vitamin C, a light moisturiser and SPF 50+. In the evening, cleanse, apply your retinoid and finish with moisturiser. This skincare routine for wrinkles and acne avoids layering too many actives at once, which is a common reason skin gets irritated.
Dealing with breakouts and fine lines at the same time is frustrating, but it’s very manageable. A consistent skincare routine for wrinkles and acne, plus knowing how to use retinol without irritation and adding a vitamin C serum for dull skin, covers most bases. Expect to wait 8 to 12 weeks before you see results and remember that a higher price doesn’t always mean a better product. Anyone with painful, cystic or scarring acne should see a GP or dermatologist, as prescription treatments can make a real difference.